Chosen Solution

Hello, Sorry for my bad english. I’m using MBP unibody late 2011 2,2 ghz. Suddenly my MBP won’t boot and horizontal lines appear at apple logo and than freezes with white screen. When I try to wait, my MBP starting to get hot and the fan speed is increasing. I already try the safe mode but it freezes again with blue screen and vertical lines. I also try to boot with recovery hd (holding down option key than choose recovery hd) but it freezes again with white screen. Can anyone identify the problem? Thanks in advance. (I hope it’s not the logic board because it’s really-really too expensive for me)

Connect to an external monitor. If you see the same lines on that screen it points to a VGU/VGC (logic board) problem. The heat and fans lead me to think this may be what’s going on but best to connect to an external monitor to confirm or deny that supposition. If the external screen looks normal it would point to an internal video chain problem. Run AHT test 2 or 3 times to see what problems it finds. Record any error messages it reports - come back here with them. If this Answer is helpful please remember to return and mark it Accepted.

Hi, I’ve just been through the same mess, details description of issue is as follow: Red horizontal lines display right after you startup, it will go on to show you the apple (still in red horizontal lines), then it show the gray screen, and your fans start running like crazy. If you switch to Windows OS you’ll be able to run on safe-mode, and the screen look like… well you know My conclusion is the RAM, not normal issue, a special RAM issue. I followed these steps and fixed it: Take out one RAM Reboot on recovery mode, (press and hold: command + R)Then it will display a crappy screen again still the apple signThen it will turn blue. Don’t panic, shut it down this time do a PRAM reset (press and hole command + option + P + R) If the RAM you are using is ok, everything should back to normal. If not, then replace it with the one you just took out and do the whole thing again. I tried command + R alone, and it not work. I then tried PRAM reset (press and hole command + option + P + R) alone, it did not work. Only when I combined them, then it worked! Also, it you put the faulty RAM in and take it out, even though you are sure the RAM is OK, the problem still exist without doing the process that I just described Hope this helps, and stop paying Apple for non-sense things. P/S: I keep wondering why all MacBook’s suddenly have the same issue at the similar period. If Apple do this on purpose to make us purchase new stuff?

I had the same problem on my early 2011 15" Macbook Pro I solved it by resetting the SMC Reset the System Management Controller to Fix the Striped Display on Boot This will dump and reset settings for anything power management related, and is long known to resolve problems with things like fans, heat, sleeping problems, and of course, display issues. On any modern MacBook Pro or MacBook Air with a built-in battery, which is just a bout all of them nowadays, this is how you do that: Shut down the Mac and connect it to your MagSafe adapter and a wall outlet as usual Hold down the Shift+Control+Option+Power button at the same time for a few seconds Release all keys at the same time, then boot the Mac as usual

The 2011 15inch has bad GPU/South bridge issues. Apple warranties these items free of charge. Contact apple or go to your nearest authorized dealer. Tell them you have been having artifacts on the screen and lines. That it has started showing a pink hue and no longer boots. You should be able to have it fixed for free.

After receiving the new battery the issue persists. Then i found this link https://www.apple.com/support/macbookpro…, apparently there is a known video issue for 15-inch and 17-inch MacBook Pro models manufactured in 2011 and 15-inch MacBook Pro with Retina models manufactured from Mid 2012 to Early 2013. You can check in the link if your macbook is under the repair extension program and they would fix it for free. Mine does. Update: The program has ended now

Hi I know I’m a little late to the party, but I had this problem, found this thread, and ultimately solved my issue. The root cause for me was a POS (Piece of …) Radeon display controller. Google “radeongate.” Late 2011 MBP. 15". I took it to the Apple store. They ran a diagnostic. Told me that my video chip was dead and I needed to a new system control board. “Unfortunately, we no longer carry those…” Ebay: $450. Screw that. I was just about to bake my system control board in the oven when I did a verbose boot and googled some of the messages I saw. I ended up finding realmacmods. This process worked for me when all the PMC PRAM etc wouldn’t. https://realmacmods.com/macbook-2011-rad… At the bottom of that link is a permanent (disconnect a component from the board) solution that I may do if upgrades start failing. Good luck.

For those of you that have narrowed your issue down to the graphics card, there is an easy way to fix it (at least temporarily). Lots of people have had success “baking” their logic boards in the oven, but it’s a risky, time consuming process to strip the board bare and toss it in the oven. The reason baking the card in the oven works is because it allows the solder on the board to “reflow”, thus re-establishing the bad connection that was causing issues in the first place. This technique reportedly solves the issue for ~1 month before the process needs to be repeated. Trust me, it doesn’t take long to become tired of that process. The following technique can be completed in about 15 minutes total, and doesn’t require you to disassemble the entire logic board. It can also be repeated as needed if the issues pop up again. Instructions are: Turn off and unplug your MacBook. Remove the screws on the bottom of your MacBook and remove the cover.Inside, you’ll see two fans, each with a small wire that clips onto the logic board. Gently lift the clip that connects each fan to the logic board. In total, you’ll be un-clipping two wires (one on each fan).Put the bottom cover back in place (don’t screw it back on yet) and turn your MacBook on. Let it run for 10 minutes (exactly). Don’t leave your MacBook unattended during this ten minute period.After 10 minutes, turn off the MacBook and let it cool down. Take the bottom cover off and plug the fans back in (they clip DOWN, kind of like a snap). Return the the bottom cover and screw it back in.Enjoy your now working MacBook. Repeat as necessary. This method essentially “reflows” the solder without a complete disassembly or the use of an oven. Remember, don’t leave the laptop unattended after the fans are unplugged.

I also faced this problem yesterday. Horizontal lines over logo, Doesn’t boot no matter what i tried PRAM Reset, SMC Reset, Verbose mode, Safe boot - none worked My friend had a look and said that he will try to save it. He tried a process which he called “reflow” the gpu, i think. Basically the Derived graphics card in my mac has stopped working he claimed and using a box like device he heated it up to the right temperature and this melt the led and made it connect properly and the laptop booted just fine :D After this, I just started gfx card status and made sure that my laptop will only use my Integrated Intel HD graphics as a precaution and prevented automatic switching. Its been working fine till now Hope this helps someone else If they have a problem

I seem to have the same problem on my MacBook Pro Late 2012 15 Inch. I am unsure of what the problem could be. Because the laptop will turn on displaying horizontal green lines across the screen. Then show the loggin with a white background and the green lines. And once I add my information to log in it’ll show a loading bar stop half way through. And restart turning it’s self off and back on again. If anyone knows how to fix this please contact me back

This problem just surfaced on my Late 2011 MacBook Pro 15" with Nvidia card. Just wanted to ask about the Hardware mod mentioned on the Real Mac Mods website. Is it necessary? Is it only to avoid problems after your reset SMC and/or NVRAM? If you do the rest of the software mods (booting from Linux, etc.), will that work alone? Many thanks.