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Hi, so recently my washing machine stopped draining and spinning. I know the motor works fine, as it agitates fine, also the lid switch works fine. When it hits the spin/drain cycle it will just click. It’s a belt driven setup, belt checks out fine, I’m leaning towards a pump, as it will gravity drain when unplugged, but I’m not sure how to test it, and I don’t want to just start throwing parts at it. Thanks in advance! ~Jim
The common issue with won’t spin and won’t drain is the lid switch. That’s what I would go for first. Here’s the service manual on your machine: http://www.manualslib.com/manual/895199/… Here’s where to get parts: http://www.searspartsdirect.com/model-nu… Most Frequent Causes for Washer won’t drain Cause 1 Drain Pump Sometimes, small objects or articles of clothing can get caught in the drain pump. To determine if anything is blocking the drain pump, remove the drain pump and check the pump for obstructions. If the drain pump is clear of obstructions, but is still noisy during the drain cycle, replace the drain pump. Cause 2 Clogged Pump or Hose Sometimes, socks and other small articles of clothing can get into the drain system and clog the pump hose or the pump itself. Remove the hoses from the pump and check for any obstructions. Cause 3 Lid Switch Assembly The lid switch assembly prevents the washer from spinning when the lid is open. If the lid switch assembly fails, the washer will not drain. To determine if the lid switch assembly is defective, use a multimeter to test each of the lid switches for continuity. If a lid switch does not have continuity, replace it. Most Frequent Causes for Washer won’t spin Cause 1 Lid Switch Assembly The lid switch assembly prevents the washer from spinning when the lid is open. If the lid switch assembly fails, the washer will not spin. To determine if the lid switch assembly is defective, use a multimeter to test the lid switch for continuity. If the lid switch does not have continuity, replace it. Cause 2 Motor Coupling The motor coupling connects the motor to the washer transmission. If the washer is overloaded, the motor coupling will fail in order to protect both the motor and transmission. The motor coupling can also fail due to normal wear. Inspect the motor coupling to determine if it is broken. If the motor coupling is broken, replace it. Cause 3 Drive Belt Inspect the drive belt to determine if it is broken or if it is loose on the pulleys. If the drive belt is broken or loose, replace it.
Had the same issue on my GE washer/dryer stack-able. Water would not drain. LID would lock on the Rinse option, so that took the lid switch out of the equation. Got the washer to “Agitate” on Heavy cycle so that took the motor out of the equation. Must be the Drain Pump. Remove the panel right below the switches, I had to use a square bit. There should be a service guide in there on how to remove the bottom panel to expose the motor and water pump. Once you do that, run the drain hose out through the front of the unit to drain water into buckets, if you’re on balcony like me, even better. Some might have to pan the water out of the unit manually. Once you get most of the water out, remove the bolts holding the pump down. Grab a big bowl and remove the hose clamp from the water pump with channel locks. The rest of the water will drain out of the washer at this time. Disassemble the pump; 4 screws to disassemble my pump Remove debris and inspect pump assembly for damage. Usually none. Reassemble. Make sure to replace any zip ties you destroyed in the process, they’re there for a reason.
