Chosen Solution

Hi, all. The passlock feature on my truck engages occasionally without cause, making me sit and wait out the 10-minute delay. This is always inconvenient and has the potential for being a safety hazard. Does anyone have an idea for how I can permanently disable this feature?

Wow, it looks like there is a whole industry built around defeating the passlock. There are a few commercial devices like this one. There is even a DIY plan for sale that they say can defeat the passlock; GM will not disable it. The only other way that I’ve read about is the “White/blue” method. ;-) Step One: Start the truck, leaving it in park, and running during this process. Step Two: Locate the plug pictured below, The plug is under the dash near the steering column. Open your driver door and stick your head on the floor near the gas and brake pedal and look up, it will be the big white plug staring you in the face. If you need anymore help let me know. You will notice that on the side closest to the front seats, the plug is pretty much split in two. We will be working with the right side of this plug. We are looking for the wire that is White with a BLUE stripe. It will be with other wires that are white/colored stripe. Step Three: Cut this wire in half, and electrical tape both ends. Step four: Shut off the truck, You’re done! Try restarting it, you will see the red security light on, but that can be removed with the LED mod how to. Check on here for more info. Hope this helps, good luck. UPDATE Images are from the same site as the link and credit to the guys at coloradofans.com as well as an interesting schematic that may offer more of a permanent solution.

Hey GM I have a great idea. I install systems in buildings and the security system can be programed several ways. it appears that the passkey system “FAIL OFF”, meaning that if anything goes wrong with the system that it turns the system off. a lot of these cars and trucks are past ten years old and are now at the bottom of there blue book price, Really who is going to steal this old ride with 200k miles. Our systems can be set to fail on, meaning that it knows the time and year in the ECM unit so why not “FAIL ON” when it goes bad, why off. Give us a light the says security fail. The programmer had the option to turn it off or turn it on. all it would do on your 1995+ is let you drive it till you decide to get a new ride or fix the security system.

The easiest way to bypass the Passlock 2 system is to place a resistor between the passlock sensing wire and the ground reference wire. To find these wires, look for three wires that at some point are wrapped together, coming from the ignition barrel. Usually, they are orange/black, red/white, and black. They can also be yellow, red/white, and black. Here’s how you do it: Cut the orange/black wire or the yellow wire, depending on what you have. Strip both ends of the wire, so you can reconnect them if needed. Next you must strip some of the insulation away from the black wire, exposing the copper inside. Now grab a reliable multimeter and set it to read Ohms. stick one probe into the exposed copper in the black wire, being careful not to touch it during the resistance test you are about to do. Hold the other probe to the ignition side of the wire you cut in the earlier step. While doing this, crank the starter and note the resistance reading you get on the multimeter. Next, arrange one or more resistors in a chain so that they add up to the value measured while cranking the starter. You can be within about 5% of the value, and it will be accepted by the passlock system as genuine. Once you have assembled the resistors so they represent the correct value, tightly wrap one end of the resistor through and around the exposed copper of the black wire. You may solder this connection if you desire. Protect this wire by taping over the exposed metal. Now you take the cut wire that leads toward the Passlock module (NOT toward the ignition barrel) and connect the other end of the resistor to this wire, being sure to tape it to protect against shorting. Once that is done, be sure to tape the exposed cut wire that leads to the ignition barrel. If you have performed these steps correctly, your Passlock system will no longer give you any problems!

Mine is a 2008 Chevy Colorado. People this is happening with many models of Chevy and even Hummers. It is that Passlock needs to be relearned. Key turned on then try to start but don’t let it, just crank it. Turn off for 5 seconds then Leave in ON position for 10 min, crank it but not start it…then off for 5 seconds, then do the 10 minutes in ON position again then off…crank it…off for 5 seconds and ON position again for 10 min then off, then crank it and off for 5 seconds then ON for 10 minutes then off. Wait for lights to clear then START ( WATCH YOU TUBE VIDEOS) https://video.search.yahoo.com/yhs/searc… A little over 30 minutes and this relearns the PASSLOCK. Watch Youtube on these techniques. Again this is happening with Impala, HHR, Colorado, Canyons, and a few others. The other option is to turn the PASSLOCK off. Use the radio to do this. Key on, press volume till readout says SETTINGS then scroll to the Security to toggle off by pressing reset ( watch YOUTUBE). I personally see no sense of having no security system so try the RELEARN method. Other thing is that the Ignition Switch has a Sensor on it and the wire clip comes loose. You can replace or try to wedge something in there to keep it from moving around. Also, there is a YouTube where the guy opens driver door, puts key in, car beeps the key chime fast, then turns the key to ON position and the Chime slows and the lights go off on Dash….then start the car. Works every time he says.

I has the same problem…. I found out though that my AUX PWR fuse was blown and problem fixed… Although i did try the white and blue wire… Once cut… It didnt start…. Put it back together and it worked…. Took the new Aux Pwr fuse out and it didnt start again… Put it back in and problem was fixed and havent had a problem since. Hope this was helpful enough

I’ve been having this problem on my 02 Silverado for about 10 years. A few years ago, I bypassed the ignition cylinder by hard wiring in some resistors,and “teaching” them to the BCM; this worked fine for about 2 years until the unit would randomly drop the code. I thought I had the hot lick by getting another BCM off eBay for $20 shipped. Installed the new BCM, and relearned via the 10 min. procedure 5x to no avail- no start. I was talking to a high performance friend and he found the stupidest fix I could ever dream of on a software website. The post included the following procedure: Get in the car, shut the door, ignition on, ignition off, window down, window up, lock, unlock… The blasted thing started immediately! I was flabbergasted to say the least. On a sidebar: I am playing with a 2002 3800 Series II v6 transplant into my 85 Pontiac Bonneville. The engine came from an 02 Firebird equipped with what I now know as Passkey 2 or 3 (resistor in key, to BCM, to PCM). I have now learned that the PCM also shuts off the injectors as well as the fuel pump. This is done via the Fuel Enable circuit to the PCM. It can be duplicated with a 5v 50hz sine wave on Passlock systems which is probably all the newrockies device does. My v6 PCM did not have the option to ignore the VATS or Fuel Enable circuit, so I had to wire in the BCM. Unplugging it while running will fool the PCM until permanent pwored is removed, at which point, the signal needs to be resent.

I have been dealing with this for years….I always used my original key, well 1 day I grabbed my close to unused “spare” key. Problem solved, haven’t had the issue again. If you don’t have a spare key, order a new key from the dealer, don’t let them just cut 1 from your original!

At the end of the ignition barrel inside the steering column is a black cap held by 2 screws. Replace that. It is the best repair for all these electric problems. Also be sure to file a complaint at NTSB.

Hello people I have read the several fixes here on the forum but I don’t like cutting wires just to make it work it kind of half @%^ to me. Anyway after poking around the dealers and asking questions they told me unfortunately there is no recall on this reoccurring problem of passlock lock out on my truck. So they told me to just buy the key ignition housing that has all the new components to the ignition including the passlock system inside. So I bought the new housing plus a bolt that you have to buy and went to my mechanic to install it plus programming of the new system in which they knew how to do it. Anyway my mechanic was way cheaper than what the dealer quoted to do the job about a few hundred dollars less. After they installed the new ignition housing with all the new components plus programming everything works great now no more false indicator chiming from my truck which indicateds that there is a problem with the system, that’s when my truck just will not start for 10mins. For now I call I fixed.

I cleaned my battery post…the problem went away. Try it.

After dealing with this off and on for over two years, it finally became a daily issue and I got it to the dealership where they said they could finally replicate the problem. They replaced the ignition switch and I have had no issue for two weeks now. I chatted via direct messages to two different Chevy customer care Twitter accounts with little to no help. They know it is an issue but are reluctant to do anything.

hola poseo una chevy colorado 2.9 2007 me tiraba el “candadito” segui los pasos del transportista sin gastar dinero 1-llevar llave 2° posision, 2-esperar a que desaparezcan los logos [ #] -[#]-[#]-[#] del la pantalla sonara un “clic” bajo el capot ponga atención al clic ok. 3- dar arranque paciencia¡¡¡¡¡

Good day to you all too…. I had the same personal problem with my Chevy…. I when an bought a new key switch an reset the computer an I never gave that problem again…

Hey guys my passlock seems to have a different effect on the 2007 Chevy Colorado. It disables the fuel injectors and doesn’t allow the truck to start at all… it will crank and show you just how amazing the battery and starter are, but without gas you’re just spinning your starter and draining your battery… you are All going to have to just stop being cheap tho. The doorman model of the ignition lock cylinder comes with a Passlock system and I’m pretty certain it doesn’t need to be programmed on this particular model. I have the 4x4, 5 cylinder, crew cab. The part is 80$ and I would suggest a mechanic install over a 100$ an hour shop to save some money but i know not every one has one. I am buying the part asap and will update this as I learn more… Update (03/05/2019) Paslock can be replaced cheaply with an ignition part. You don’t even have to replace your key. Mine is fixed, no reprogramming, minor self labor or minor shop labor is all that’s required. Anyone that has a paslock issue ONLY needs to replace a simple ignition component.

I have found, after all that i have read, nothing is a solid repair for this. So with that being said, I will give you My technique (and so far it has worked). My 04 colorado acts up occasionally. I have found if the ignition switch is just turned S-l-O-W-L-Y, most times it will fire. Sometimes not. If not,dont panic. Back the key off and try it again! Low and slow does it for me….

On my 2008 Colorado, I have to: 1, put truck in neutral (5 speed manual) 2. turn key to on position, 3.  Press clutch to floor then release 4. Turn key to start and engine starts

Only way to permanently fix this is to send the PCM to a tuner and have them eliminate the VATS / Passlock. or pay the dealership 500 to have them replace the ignition switch assembly and reprogram

To fix the Passlock System on the 1st Gen Colorado / Canyon You need to replace the ignition switch Assy. Part # D1462G & if your Keys are worn bad you will need to get New keys cut from the factory Key Code don’t get new keys cut from your old worn out keys ! https://www.amazon.com/ACDelco-D1462G-Or…

send pcm to limeswap and tune out VATS for $99 or a little over.