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Started car, went in reverse and when put car in drive car limped and no acceleration. Car check engine light came on. Car slowly rolled until I parked it again. Rested car for several minutes and started again and was able to accelerate to get home. Check engine light stays on. Could it be bad gas, clogged fuel filter?
Your check engine light means that there is an error code stored that will tell you where the issue is. Nissans will go into a “limp home” mode that limits the engine RPM if certain codes are detected to allow you to drive the vehicle to a safe location before shutting it off. I’m assuming this is what has happened with your vehicle. You need to plug an OBDII code reader into the plug located somewhere under your dash near the steering column and find out what the error code stored is, then do a search on that code to find out what error it represents, then on that code and your specific vehicle to find more information.
Hi, just went through a similar problem with a 06 Sentre were the accelerator would have zero response when in Drive or Reverse. We found our problem to be a bad alternator (it was charging some, but not correct ). In our situation the problem was evident with the lights on and ran fine with them off. Something about the voltage being flaky. hope this is helpful to someone.
Take the car to an Auto Zone and get a free computer readout to tell you what’s going on with the engine. Then you’ll be much better armed to know what to do. Until then you’re just guessing with a very expensive piece of machinery.
I have same problem in my 2004 quest van. The box in transmission has a recall. What it does is if one tire is on ice and the other tire is on dry ground it locks everything out(engine,trans.), can only coast. When I start to drive van it will be locked out. You need to put it in park shut it off wait 2 seconds then restart it. It will be fine.
The same thing happened to me, infinity nissan cars in 1997, most likely the oxygen sensor or the MAF mass airflow sensor, sometimes with the toggling on and off the car can run normally, it does not happen again when I clean the MAF sensor and check connection of the two sensors.
Hi, I just went to the exactly same problem. The problem is the alternator. These cars rely too much in electronical parts that need precise voltage in order to work properly; when the alternator is not working, these parts go after battery power to keep working, but, because the alternator is not working correctly and not charging the battery either, the battery will drain and it will cause a complete failure; with all the warning lights turning on and off, flickering until the car turns off. The best you can do, If you can still start the car, go directly to a repair shop and be ready to get a new alternator and probably a new battery (they can try to recharge the battery but make sure it is done in a battery charger and not with the new alternator, that will stress him and shorten its lifespan.).
‘‘‘I have a 2008 Nissan Versa SL my car is doing the same thing as above. But the only difference is I was getting low on fuel on my way home the other night and my gas light came on this is my first time to let it get this low. It ran fine all the way home with the gas light on and so I decided to get gas the next day. Usually I park underneath the carport at my apts but they were all taken so my car sat all day out in the hot sun until around 4 pm the next day when I decided to go get gas and go to the store. The car started fine and drove fine until I was almost out of my apt complex. Then it went into limp mode I just thought I was out of gas so I crawled to the gas station across the street and got got gas. The car started again and drove fine all the way to the store and almost to my apts and then poof limp mode acting up again gas pedal goes to floor and nothing. It I let it sit the gas pedal will work it will back up but when I put it in drive the gas pedal goes to the floor like it isn’t even attached it doesn’t do anything. And that is where I am oh I might mention the check engine light never came on the whole time until when I got home from the grocery store and kept messing with it putting it in park starting it backing out and putting in drive one time I gave it gas and it jerked really bad. I am 66 years old and am worrying it is the fuel pump cause if that is it I am going to be with out a car I cannot afford the cost of that. I have had several people tell me to get the meter I know I can get the meter but to ease my mind I thought someone may of had the same problem nd give me some hope that it isn’t going to be a 1000 dollars job. Everytime I have gone to a mechanic the bill always comes out to over 1000 dollars and I don’t know if they are being honest. Thank please don’t answer with check the code I know that.
Disconnect the NEGATIVE cable to your battery for about 30 seconds. Reattach the cable & tighten so connection wont move. Turn/Press start until radio comes on, but DON’T press the brake peddle to start the vehicle yet! Wait 5 seconds then turn off. Next start your vehicle as usual. It may or may not fix the problem, but it should let you drive home or to your Nissan service center.
my 2007 nissan note engine light came on and car went into safe mode. I can’t go over 1500 rpm, changed the throttle body and fuse box, but it keep breaking the fuse and go back to the same issue. we checked the wires and didn’t find any breakage. Any suggestion?
My maxima stopped running and will not even go into gear HELP. Janice
I have Nissan dayz and have same problem error detected is throttle error I changed it but same problem what should I do please answer
I have same problem with my Nissan Murano 2004, the throttle does not respond. But when i park the car for about 15mins it picks up again. I’ve had it scanned and the code says throttle sensors. Hadbit changed but same issue still. I’m looking at other pressure sensors to figure out where this is coming from.
Have. 2005 Nissan Altima 2.5l..just changed camshaft sensors and 02 sensor, now the car doesnt accelerates correctly. Im deaf and cant hear any noise in/from the engine. The car accelreated fine before the sensors replacement….should i reuse the old sensors or is the acceleration a new problem. Note, there are no trouble codes and no check/service engine light.
Please my nissan quest 2007 is not accelerating when on drive, i want to know if it is connected to the amplifier because the music system has stopped working. Pls help
04 nissan morando 4wd v6 accelerating issues Check engine light turns on for both o2 sensors when throttle looses communication with the computer on the scanner. Bought a junk yard throttle body still does the same thing send the computer to get it checked out and it was fine. I literally rewired the harness from the throttle to the ecm. It still does the same thing. Runs then it feels as if the throttle doesn’t respond intermittently. Like I said on the scanner it shows both throttle sensor voltage responding the same with the accelerator pedal but then it wont. I’m just thinking on buying a new one but I don’t want to risk it. I know for sure the pedal is fine because the scanner is reading the voltages pressed and depressed. But not the throttle
My 04 Nissan murano will not accelerate I was pulling out the yard it backed up fine I stop to talk to someone all of a sudden I smell a unusual smell like something burnt and smelly I put it in in drive to go and it would barely move I try to back up and it did the same what could that possibly be I never a had no signs of transmission shifting badly or anything
2008 Nissan Rogue: We have had the car since 2011. The transmission was replaced with the recall. The same slowing happens, take the battery cable off to reset the car, and it works for a week or more. Taken to a couple of shops, just to keep local economy going (thanks nissan), and one of them says we need a new transmission and other says it could be a loose wire. Nissan Altima, Versa, Rogue are known to have fuel problems and transmission. But this is not our case… We have had the TCM reprogrammed. Then afterwards other dealer(s) said to replace it… After reading all these complaints with no solutions. We have not drove the car for long distances, knowing the issues, so the transmission fluid has not gotten hot enough for this issue. [Knowing we can reset the “system” gives us another week or so.] But seems this is another issue with Nissan. So is the solution to keep disconnecting the battery? I have read multiple stories of people disconnecting the battery to get more “life” out of the short driving period, but no one has come up with a solution. SOLUTION: [please don’t tell my insurance agent] full coverage and then…PUSH IT OFF A CLIFF, OOPS! Hope you have cliffs where you are located, if not you are screwed because the cars won’t make it for a long drive!
I drive a Nissan Tiida 07 in Nigeria. I took my car for a repaint and it won’t accelerate smoothly after I took it back, it seldom goes into a ‘limp mode’. After a day without a solution from the auto electrical guys Who says it ’ll normalize, I had to read up issues and solution on this platform, I read over hours and it was worth it. Thankfully amongst many suggestions, balancing and tightening a loose battery head solved it. I realised that the car needed constant current flow to function well. If u ’ve limp issues, don’t replace parts in a hurry, checkout for loose wires first.
I have a 2004 Nissan murano and its throwing codes p1148 p1168 p1031 and p1051. Now my issue is when I turn the car on with it in park I can rev it all I want however long I want but the seccond I put It in gear i loose throttle response. I’ve replaced the app and its still doing the same thing. Its ny only transportation and I got it from a buy here pay here and they are not willing to work with me. I’ve seen on here some people have similar issuissued none of which are solved .
I’ve fixed Nissan Mirano whose issue was the ECM. This was after lots of trouble shooting. The car would accelerate and then lul for a few seconds and accelerate normally. Only from a dead stop. The ECM was bad. Now it has plenary of power and is running fine. The issue im dealing with today is a 2008 Nissan Versa with a 1.8L that seems to have good power until it’s engaged in drive or reverse. Park and neutral it’s able to rev up, but in drive or reverse the RPMs bounce around 1000 and it doesn’t want to move. Break lights work. No bad fuses. New battery. Cleaned the intake manifold. Im stumped
You people changing O2 sensors, cam sensors, etc are typically wasting money and time. You Must check your Codes and even that may only be an indicator towards the real issue: A bad sensor may only be a wire or a bad ground if several codes are showing up typically indicates bad alternator, ECM or simply a bad wire somewhere. Sensors have an OHM range and can easily be tested! Better to get a cheap ELM code reader eBay than pay $80 to someone. Every car should have this built in, in my opinion! Without knowing what codes are showing, and to simply look for vacuum leak in that system or to clean MAF sensors when it’s running real bad, will have you delirious, and broke. I would really invest in a good OBDii code reader, one that has ABS, SRS (TPMS now too) as these issues will put cars in limp mode. Security issues (Transponders chips in keys) are a separate problem and may cause ‘ECM Disconnected’ codes, so for some issues expensive testers may be needed like the SBB V48 (V33 is old and only good up to 2010 Models…) This tool is invaluable when Security issues prevent cars from starting, and prevent some from turning over! Anything that turns over but doesn’t starts suspect Fuel pump or Crank sensor, ECM (could be a wire on harness rubbing against the body (especially Dodge minivans etc…) Google your issue, read lots about your particular vehicle and inherent issues related to yours. Typical things to do are start with cheapest first, MAF sensor cleaning, MAP sensor (MAP sensor will prevent car from starting. Simply unplug it; car will run rough but it will start!) crank sensor will prevent car from starting or intermittently shut down, like fuel pressure issues, Coolant temperature sensor will put car in limp mode as well as alternator issues or simply a bad battery connection or Ground wire to engine or to Body. Simple fix is to run a wire to engine and body from Negative battery post! Wires exposed to the elements such as the harness to the fuel tank/pump will deteriorate and sometimes where it goes into the body through a grommet or the harness on top of the fuel tank (some have access port under rear seat) A (corroded) poor connection at the battery causes 80% power loss for cranking engine! There are two wires connecting to starter, actually the solenoid, Big wire is to activate turn the starter but the little wire needs power to activate the solenoid which allows power to flow through a disk which gets pushed onto the Big cable from battery to the braided wire to the starter itself. Easy to connect a small wire onto the end of post of small wire and touch other end to Positive battery being careful of manual vehicles don’t run you over. Another tip; if car won’t turn over, find starter Relay, pull it out and bridge the connection, car should turn over or Starter is bad or the connections to it or between solenoid and starter! Put car in neutral and rock it to release a starter benzoid from the flywheel, pound on a gas tank with a 2x4 to free a stuck fuel pump- Dodge recommends half tank of gas to keep fuel pump cool! Dumb! Some brands have inherent things and with New technology like CVT, Vanos, VVT., there will be considerations towards extra failures. You want a reliable car get a V6 Buick Allure, or Toyota Toyota Toyota! In summarization: CVT fluid must be changed frequently, shouldnt drive in winter so slippage of wheels may occur (vibration & heat are killers of any transmission) Nissan CVT especially had high failure rate and a company that Was getting a name for itself failed miserably with this application. Dont change parts without testing codes. Dealer Repair Prices are crazy and perhaps Kijiji or Craig’s list mechanics offer better choices if warranties are expired. Sometimes it’s worth paying $40/hr to have issue resolved by a specialist! I don’t trust many dealers but that’s just me! (30years off & on as backyard mechanic!) Hope this helps some, but may generate new questions to your issues.
08 Nissan Altima…I started my car while my lower lower trans cooler hose was not fastened and leaked majority of transmission fluid gushed out. Now car is reading 8 transmission DTC’s and car accelerates in Park and Reverse but will not accelerate in Drive. Is my Trans in Limp Mode???…
I have a 09’ Murano that wont go after putting in Drive or Reverse. Just revs up but dont move. I’d like to point out I didnt have this problem til I had a cracked head problem fixed with this sealant (as shown in pic). Do u think these 2 problems are linked or this acceleration problem is separate. Should I have my transmission fluid replaced after the “sealant job". Since we did see the oil was milky too. Any suggestions please??
Engine Oil was milky? That wouldn’t affect the transmission unless it was mixing with the coolant as there may be a combination transmission cooler/radiator. Highly unlikely since 3 systems would have to intermix in that case. This is a simple issue of linkage not connected during repair, a bent pin, codes keeping it in limp mode and you must clear them, also Check transmission fluid levels. Perhaps a connector pin was bent when the reconnecting the harness during repair or antifreeze is shorting a connector out of it sprayed anywhere from a leak. . You CanNot clear OBDii transmission codes with a simple OBDii scanner! You will need a better one, for SRS & ABS & Transmissions! You May need a throttle relearn procedure or the likes. I don’t suspect a serious issue, at least not with th transmission. I suspect the head gasket issue and fix is a more serious problem and the ECM likely put it in limp mode due to a misfire if coolant was getting into firing chamber. You may need a better fix but who knows that stuff may last a couple years… Please give feedback!
Can someone help me out when your car was in the lock mode when you had to wiggle the steering wheel because I never had this problem when I put my car in drive it just rose same as reverse Also it doesn’t show up like the P does for parking Can someone please help me like what do I do
Just want to say that in my case, i asked an auto electrician to check, and it was the gas butterfly sensor issue. I wasn’t there when he fixed it but my car is accelerating very well now.
Check the spark plugs…
