Chosen Solution
Sudden complete loss of cooling both compartments, despite that (multi-speed inverter) compressor, consenser, and both evaporator cooling fans run and sound normal continuously. Test modes produce no error codes on control panel nor inverter control board (solid compressor L.E.D., no blink codes). Condenser never gets warm and neither evaporator ever gets cold. Wondering if leak caused total loss of refrigerant, but then wouldn’t compressor sound unusual, not run, or run only for short intervals? Or could refrigerant flow be restricted somewhere (perhaps at the 3-way stepper-motor diverter valve) without causing compressor to sound or act abnormally? Or is this just the way these compressors (Samsung MKV190C-L2B E01) fail? I’m puzzled, and would appreciate any knowledgeable help in diagnosing my problem. Want to know for myself what’s most likely wrong before I call a technician. I have control system background, but in electro-mechanical systems vs. refrigeration. Thanks!
Samsung’s are notorious for bad inverter boards. Is the compressor hot? I usually pull the inverter board out and look on both side for signs of overheating or burnt areas. When you pull it off, look at the area it is up against. It might even looked burnt examine the main board too Unplug the refrigerator before removing the boards The inverter has 300V or more in some places If it was a leak, you would see signs of oil. Look around all the refrigerant lines, confessor coils and evaporator. Ther is a refrigerant line that runs under the condenser coils. This line sits in the water from defrost. I’ve seen it erode and leak. The pannwill have oil in it. If you don’t see any oil, the only thing left is to tap the system to check the pressures. That will determine if there’s a restriction, a leak or if the compressor failed. That three way valve is a pain with it plugged in, tough the compressor with the tip of a screwdriver. Is it vibrating.? Is it warm, hot or extremely hot?
JPB, the difference in the two compressors that you might notice is the variable voltage. The compressor receives up to 300v plus. At start up it should have at lest 200v (depending on model). You’ll hear it running faster or slower depending on if the voltage is stepped up or down. I usually feel the compress for heat and vibration. If it’s hot to touch and condenser is cool/room temp then compressor it’s not pumping properly. A proper diagnosis at this point needs to be done by checking the pressures on both side of compressor. A certified refrigeration technician must do these test. If the side pressure is in a vacuum, add a little gas and see if the pressure rises and stays there. If it rises and falls back down it immediately it usually isn’t a leak. Probably a restriction. You need to be sure the compressor is getting the correct voltage. There should be a chart on the back of the refrigerator with test point and voltages. I’d check the voltage before checking the pressures.
Compressor The compressor is a pump which compresses the refrigerant and circulates the refrigerant through the evaporator and condenser coils. If the compressor is not working, the refrigerator won’t cool. However, this is rarely the case. Before replacing the compressor, first check all of the more commonly defective parts. If you have determined that all of the other components are working properly, check the compressor. Use a multimeter to test the continuity between the electrical pins on the side of the compressor. If there is an open circuit, the compressor is likely defective. If the compressor is defective, it must be replaced by a licensed technician. https://www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/…
